Wednesday, November 26, 2008

15 NOVEMBER 2008--God's Natural Beauty


I stand in awe of God's creation.













Wait up....I coming to slide on my belly too!












That flag was standing until this one started yawning...the vacuum pulled the flag right down!

I can't say that I blame the seal for being tired. The seals come up from under the water thru small holes in the ice. The edge of the ice shelf is currently 60-80 miles away from McMurdo. This means that this seal potentially traveled 60-80 miles under the ice, in freezing cold water and finally found this hole to take a break. They swim like little torpedoes through the water then pop up through the hole for a break.


Asleep on his feet! These little guys are amazing! Notice that his feet aren't touching the ground...he's completely propped on his tail.


Tuesday, November 25, 2008

15 NOVEMBER 2008--God's Deep Blue Something!


It's been seven years since anyone has been able to explore any ice caves near McMurdo Station, Antarctica. The caves have not existed since the summer season of 2001 due to the dynamic changes in the sea ice surrounding the edge of the glacier tongue, a long and narrow sheet of ice jutting out from the coast.

The “caves” are not really caves per say, but instead are crevasses that are covered by snow bridges with a re-frozen seawater floor. The Erebus Glacier had been held back from surging at a steady pace toward the sea by the frozen sea ice surrounding it. This increasingly built up the potential energy of the glacier tongue. Finally, this past season, when the sea ice edge started to recede south toward the glacier tongue, the energy was released and the glacier surged forward, causing large chunks of glacier ice to break off the edge of the tongue. Once the movement had settled, the tip of the Erebus Glacier Tongue was left as the vertical blue wall of ice that can now be seen. A small portion of the edge folded forward to create the crevasse that is now accessible to enter. There are snows steps that have been cut to gain access to the entrance into the Ice cave.

Visitors enter the cave by sliding down a slope into the cave, which is walled by the actual glacier. Along the entrance to and inside the cave, there are ice crystals, ice stalactites, and varied shades of blue light filtering through the ice and snow bridge overhead. It was truly and exciting to ride this ice slide but I remain speechless about my view once I hit the bottom. When my feet landed I was surrounded by the most beautiful vision of God's creation I have ever seen in the natural world. This photo was snapped of me when I hit the bottom and the look on my face speaks of utter amazement and awe. A tear came to my eyes and the tour guide looked at me and said: "Oh, Father Jon...it's okay!" I said: "It's more than OKAY, God is amazing!"

Here is the Frozen Chosen amidst God's Deep Blue Something!


I continue to be amazed by the beauty of what surrounded me!




Once beyond the entrance, everything is blue. This is the true color of the interior of the cave. The ice is blue because the red/yellow wavelengths from the full spectrum of light coming from the sun is not refracted more than a meter inside the ice. The blue wavelength has enough energy to penetrate deep inside the ice and scatter. Red has the slowest wavelength and is quickly absorbed by the dense ice. Without the red/yellow wavelength available in the ice environment, the human eye reads the aura of the ice as blue. It all has to do with the electromagnetic spectrum and the relative energy of each wavelength of photons.




Enough science....I wish these photos did the beauty justice.




This ice cave has left and indelible mark of God's Deep Blue Something on my life forever!






15 NOVEMBER 2008--The Pittsburgh Connection

Anne and I laugh at our local news station WTAE-Pittsburgh...without fail there is always a Pittsburgh Connection to something around the world. We joke back and forth about the fact that the axis of the earth seems to revolve around Pittsburgh. Now, don't get me wrong, I love where I am from...but it gets to be bit much at times. Everything ends up being a 'burgh thing!
So as I am surrounded by the beauty of this continent...I keep thinking to myself...why haven't they done a Pittsburgh Connection to Antarctica. Hmmm...I am sure that there has to be a Pittsburgh Connection to this place....other than myself.






SURE ENOUGH! THE PITTSBURGH CONNECTION!
Here on the shelf of the Terra Nova Hut at Cape Evans, Antarctica....The Pittsburgh Connection! HEINZ KETCHUP!
It's amazing how much "stuff" is inside the hut and howwell it's preserved. The dry, cold air here preserves things for years and most of the items are over 100 years old. I had to laugh when I saw a 100 year old bottle of Heinz Ketchup on the shelf. A Heinz Ketchup bottle that is topped with a cork, and there wasn't just one but a whole shelf of the stuff. I have taken a number of photos of the bottles and the labels, maybe Heinz will be interested in my investigative reporting on the Pittsburgh Connection. Watch out WTAE, here I come!

15 NOVEMBER 2008--Cape Evans

History Lesson Of The Day: (This is a part of the info sheet provided during the tour)

Scott's Terra Nova Expedition, 1910-1913
In 1908 Robert Falcon Scott decided that he would take a sabbatical from his life as a military man and once again set out to the southern most continent to stake his claim. He did not know at the time that his "run" for the South Pole would become a race, or that it would be the last journey he would ever take. After a few years of fundraising Scott was ready to go to the Pole. In 1910 he and his men sailed from New Zealand into the familiar seas leading to McMurdo Sound. The journey is unforgettable, and the men have become heroes.

The Trip to Antarctica
For his trip to Antarctica, Scott purchased the Terra Nova. He had, originally, wanted to bring the Discovery (the shipped used on his first expedition), but the owners would not sell it to him. He settled for the Discovery's sister ship, Terra Nova that had also been used during the first expedition. During the trip South Scott wished more than once that he had chosen a different ship. It was warm, but it leaked. During a storm on December 2, 1910, the bilge pumps stopped working and the crew had to empty water from the ship using buckets. The storm also caused problems for the animals. The dogs that were leashed on the top deck were being thrown around and the horses in the underbelly of the ship were slowly being covered in water. When all was said and done the expedition lost one dog and two ponies. It was a difficult loss, especially since one dog and one pony had died before the Terra Nova left port. It could have been seen as a bad omen, but the captain and crew kept in good spirits. Just over a month after they had left New Zealand the men of the Terra Nova spotted the smoking peak of Mt. Erebus. The initial plan was to land near Cape Crozier, but they were unable to do so because of the sea ice. They sailed back to the familiar territory of McMurdo Sound and stopped at the Skuary, which Scott quickly renamed Cape Evans in honor of his second in command, Teddy Evans. As the men were unloading the boat, disaster struck once again. Ponting, the expedition's photographer, was almost eaten by a group of killer whales, and one of the very expensive motorized sledges that Scott had brought fell through the sea ice leaving them with only two.

The Hut at Cape Evans
The hut that was originally built in New Zealand the previous October was unloaded onto the shore, put together, and occupied within two weeks. The hut is 50 feet long, 25 feet wide, and reached to nine feet at the peak. Its double doors, during Scott's expedition, were insulated with quilted seaweed and lined with felt. The roof was covered with three-ply rubberoid and the floor was laid with linoleum. The hut was equipped with acetylene gas jets, stoves, clotheslines, clocks, and a gramophone. The stoves were used to heat the hut. The floor was kept below freezing so that any snow that got into the hut could be easily swept out. Mid-body level was kept at about 50 degrees, and the rafters would get up to 70 degrees (all Fahrenheit). The warmth of the air at the top of the hut was used to melt buckets of ice for the men to use for their baths once a week. The two sides of the hut were separated using crates, mostly of wine. On the left side of the hut were the officer's quarters, and the crewmen slept on the right. Scott slept by himself on the far left corner of the hut. His room was separated from the rest using sheets. He used a linoleum-covered table as a desk for work. It is the table that now holds books and the penguin. Across from Scott's bed were the beds of Edward Atkinson, the expedition's surgeon, and George Simpson its meteorologist. On the other side of the wall from Scott's room there is a grouping of beds. That is where the rest of the officers, including Oates, Cherry-Garrard, Bowers, and Meares. This section was known as "The Tenements" because it was so cramped and there were very few items other than necessities. Oates' only luxury was a bust of Napoleon that he kept next to his bed. Ponting made himself a darkroom and slept in it.



Wintering at Cape Evans
Although they didn't have much, spirits in the hut remained high during the winter. Scott credited that to the fact that everyone stayed relatively busy during this time. There were a number of scientific experiments being done. The equipment that was going to be used for the polar traverse had to be checked and mended. The men kept detailed records of the weather around McMurdo Sound. Cherry-Garrard began producing the South Polar Times once again, and kept a good record of life in the hut at Cape Evans. The men celebrated Mid-Winter Day on June 22nd as if it were Christmas. The men were good at livery. They often had evening lectures. One of the scientists would talk about the recent findings of his work, or they would simply tell stories and laugh. When the weather was good they would even go out on the sea ice and play soccer. During the winter three of the men, Wilson, Cherry-Garrard, and Bowers, left on an expedition to Cape Crozier. Wilson wanted to study the incubation of Emperor penguins. Although the expedition was successful in the fact that the men did collect samples from the penguins, it was almost deadly. The men made it back to Cape Evans barely alive, and when Cherry-Garrard published a book about the journey it would forever be known as "The Worst Journey in the World." On August 23, 1911, the sun rose for the first time in six months. After two more near tragedies, Atkinson almost being lost in a blizzard and the ponies nearly dying of colic, all thoughts were turned toward the pole. As the supplies were readied for the journey, the men wondered who would get to be in Scott's final polar party.


Yet another cross is erected near this site in memory of even more Antarctic explorers who gave their all in the spirit of exploration. There are perpetual reminders of just how austere this environment truly is.

Saturday, November 22, 2008

12 NOVEMBER 2008--The Replacements


The Frozen Chosen of course are the original four military folks that deployed for Operation DEEP FREEZE starting in September. Greg, Tracey, Jen, and I made up this original contingent. Tracey and Jen are being replaced by two more Active Duty personnel from Kadena AFB, Okinawa, Japan. Tracey's counterpart is Mila French (Center Right) and Jen's counterpart is Leslie Green (Center Left). They are both high-energy, wonderful additions to the medical staff and McMurdo in general. With that being said, there is also a level of sadness...replacements mean that some deployments are coming to an end and for those of us that have to stick around so much longer...it makes the deployment seem like it's dragging out all the longer. Great friendships are always established on deployments...keeping friendships is more work post-deployment. What say we....keep up the friendships in our post-deployment life? I know, that means I have to be better at the whole e-mail thing....!

Thursday, November 20, 2008

11 NOVEMBER 2008--Veterans Day



For the second year in a row and in commemoration of the 90th anniversary of the Armistice from WWI, I spearheaded a combined Veterans Day and Armistice Day celebration for the personnel of Scott Base and McMurdo Station.

Likewise in moments such as this we acknowledge that our freedoms are so closely linked with that of our international allies. As we gather to celebrate this combined Armistice and Veteran’s Day the price of freedom knows no bounds. We stand in awe of the sacrifices that have been made by our allies especially our New Zealand friends. The celebration of this 11th day of the 11th month comes from the Armistice concluding World War I. New Zealand sacrificed the largest part of its citizens to this conflict more than any other nation involved in that conflict. Our New Zealand allies have also sacrificed for every major conflict from that day to the present. We are honored to bear witness to our joint efforts this day.



I am humbled to be able to stand in front of over 70 personnel from Scott Base and McMurdo Station and offer an invocation to begin this commemoration.

















We not only had a POW/MIA table as a centerpiece of the days ceremony, but we also took it into the dining facility for each meal. What follows is part of the script that I wrote for this combined celebration.




The meaning of the POW/MIA table: We call your attention to this small table ...which occupies the place of dignity and honor.It is set for one ... Symbolizing the frailty of one prisoner ...alone against his or her suppressors.
We call them POWs and MIAs.We call them comrades.They are unable to be with their loved ones and families today ...so we join together to pay a humble tribute to them ...and bear witness to their continued absence.
The table cloth is white ...symbolic of the purity of their intentions to respond to their Country’s call to arms.
The single red rose in the vase ...signifies the blood they have shed ...to ensure the freedom of our beloved New Zealand and the United States of America.The rose also reminds us of the family and friends ...who keep the faith ...while awaiting their return.
The yellow ribbon on the vase represents those who demand a final accounting of our comrades who are not among us today.
The slice of lemon on the plate… reminds us of their bitter fate.
The salt, when sprinkled onto the plate ...reminds us of the countless fallen tears of families as they wait.
The glass is inverted ...they cannot toast with us this day.
The candle is reminiscent of the light of hope ...which lives in our hearts to illuminate their way home ...away from their captors ...and into the open arms of a grateful Nation.
The Bible reminds us to pray… A prayer to the Supreme Commander that all of our comrades will soon be back within our ranks.Let us remember them and never forget their sacrifices.
The chair faces away from us because there is an unknown face…representing no one individual…but rather all the missing from all the wars. It is also facing away to symbolize the isolation and lack of human contact that our Patriots must endure.
Yes, on this day, this special table is set in honor of 8896 comrades of the New Zealand Defense Forces… unaccounted for…24,637 comrades of the United States Armed Forces… unaccounted for…Let us now remember and never forget...The price of freedom is never free.


8 NOVEMBER 2008--On a Wing and a Prayer

Real American Heroes--Pictured left to right: Capt. Tracey Sapp (Flight Nurse), Capt. Greg Richert (Flight Surgeon), MSgt Jennifer Ray (Flight Med Tech) have returned from a daring rescue mission across the continent to save an injured Australian from Davis Camp, the Australian Research facility in Antarctica. The individual was injured when he rode his quad-bike over a 30 foot ice cliff. His life depended upon his evacuation from the continent.




I augmented the medical personnel, who were prepping for the Aero-Medical Evacuation from Davis Camp, in breaking down all of their medical supplies, inventorying items, and repacking the combined supplies for the mission. The medical supplies that arrived were enough to support more than 25 individual medical casualties. These supplies needed to be pared down effectively to ensure mission success medically as well as tactically. The stringent weight restrictions placed on the cargo was enacted in order to provide enough additional fuel to make Davis Camp.

The following are news links regarding this daring mission:
Upon the successful completion of the medical rescue mission to Davis Camp, I was sought out by the returned Aero-Medical evacuation personnel and told that the mission was only successful because of my prayerful vigil over this mission. I was quite humbled that God was given the due credit. I was blessed to be able to aid in this mission through the prayer support as well as the medical augmentation that I provided at McMurdo Station in prepping the mission.